Frequently Asked Questions

The minimum number of hens you can reserve is three if you do not already have hens. If you already have hens the minimum number is two. The maximum number of hens you can adopt is 20.

Minimum donation is £5 per hen, which goes back into Lucky Hens towards our running costs.

Hens need a secure coop and permanent run to exercise in. You can convert a regular shed or wendy house, build your own or buy a hen house. 

When you buy a hen house, the manufacturer will usually state how many hens they can house. Some manufacturers will always go for a higher number than is comfortable so it’s always a good idea to stock your house with less hens than is recommended. The main requirement is sufficient perch space for the hens because normally they will be outside, free ranging, during the day. Hen runs come in many sizes but the more space you give the hens the better. If you have a very small run, they will get bored quickly and could soon become aggressive to each other. You must also ensure that your hens are allowed out of their run as much as possible to free range, no matter the size of run you provide. 

Hens need a minimum of 2sq m per bird in the run whilst they need a minimum of 30 sq cms floor space in their coop.  

Foxes are the number one predator to protect hens against. Foxes are attracted by hens and will kill any hens that are not secure. A secure run is essential, as hens are extremely vulnerable to predators whilst free ranging.  All hens should be put to bed in their house at dusk. 

Foxes are clever and can get over or under most fences, but there are things you can do to make it very difficult for them. The fence should be at least 6ft tall and ideally slope outwards to make it hard for the fox to climb over. To make the fencing burrow proof you can dig it into the ground a foot and turning it outwards. Placing bricks or large stones on top of the outlaid wire before covering with soil is also a good idea. Foxes can chew through regular chicken wire so ensure your chicken fencing is strong enough that a fox can’t chew through it. Or alternatively you could electrify the fence which is a very effective way of keeping all predators away. 

Galvanised or PVC-coated chicken wire is the best wire for keeping your chickens in their coop and run. For protection against predators such as foxes, we would advise using welded wire panels and/or electric fencing in addition to chicken wire.

• Layers mash - This is what caged hens are fed. In time, you can slowly change their diet to layers pellets if you wish but wait until they have settled in for a couple of weeks.
• Poultry Grit - Hens don’t have teeth but they do have a gizzard that grinds their food down using insoluble grit. Most free range hens will pick up enough grit from grazing but it is always a good idea to provide grit just in case. Soluble grit (oyster shell) can be provided. This provides calcium for the hens to produce strong egg shells. Commercial caged hens often have brittle bones since the calcium from their bones is taken to produce eggshells. Most commercial feeds these days provide sufficient calcium but again, it is a good idea to provide oyster shell grit.
• Food and water containers - There are so many different ones on the market, Lucky Hens have de­signed and made our own to sell to create more funds for the rescue! Don’t forget the hens are not used to having to go far for their food or water so make sure they are within easy reach of your new hens to start with.
• Apple Cider Vinegar - This is remarkably good for hens in many ways but the best thing is scientific tests have shown it actually helps them to cope with stress and changes to their environment.

Caged hens are used to being fed dry layers mash. Changes are stressful for hens and ex-caged hens have had enough to deal with coming out of their cages to a completely new environment, so it is important that you are able to continue feeding them layers mash for a few weeks, until they’ve settled in. After which, you can gradually change their feed over to pellets if you prefer.

All rescue days are held in Wigan. We do not have any other collection sites. 

You should bring with you either cat carriers, sturdy cardboard boxes with air holes cut into the side or dog crates. You should line the carrier with straw or newspaper. 

Some ex-caged hens can be poorly when they come out of the farms (we keep those at the rescue until they are well enough to be re-homed). A few can be very sparsely feathered and can look almost ‘oven ready’ but most hens will have just a few bare patches. Hens will usually feather up within a few months and look far more like ‘normal’ hens. 

When you get home, you should put your new hens into their hen house to help them get used to their new home. You can let them out of their coop in their new run as well. 

At first, they may not put themselves to bed (this is often the case with new hens) They will soon get the hang of what you expect from them.

Caged hens are the result of many years of breeding and selection. They have been bred to lay the largest possible number of eggs in their first couple of years of their life. If you want ex-caged hens solely for eggs, then they aren’t really for you. Ex-caged hens should still have a large number of eggs to lay for you but keep in mind that commercially they are ‘spent’ hens and like any hen will lay less and less every year, sometimes with a thinner eggshell as they age. A very small number of hens that are rescued do not lay although most will usually start laying very quickly. Like all hens, expect them to lay most of their eggs during the spring and summer months and expect them to stop laying when they go into moult in the late autumn and when the daylight hours are reduced over the winter.

They may not lay their eggs in the next boxes but with a little extra attention during the first couple of months, they will soon learn the routine.

Ex-caged hens do require a little bit of TLC and attention during the initial couple of months that you get them until they have adapted to their new life and routine. Once they have settled in, they really are no trouble at all and are easier to look after than many pure breeds of hens. You will need to make sure you have the time to give them fresh water and food every day and make sure you can lock them up at night safe from foxes.

Our rehoming days are dependent on farm slaughter dates, as this is when we can collect the hens. We advertise our rehoming dates on our website here as well as on Facebookand Instagram. You can also sign up to our newsletter to keep up to date. 

You should follow the latest government guidance here.